Europe Alive was created in 1979 by Alison Tennant, a founder member and past Chairman of EUW. The aim is to promote exchange visits between women from member countries and to give an insight into the culture, commerce and governmental activities of the country visited.
In 1985, Alison Tennant’s report to the General Assembly said: “Europe Alive is essentially political for those well-versed and for those keen to learn more …. for visitors to share their knowledge and experience in discussions on social, industrial and economic problems …. for ordinary members. The hope is that Europe Alive may promote growth, and give EUW a broad base as well as a specialised membership”.
The host country draws up a programme of events to cover 3-4 days and the visit is open to all national Sections. The mix of participants from many Sections is lively and stimulating.
EUROPE ALIVE British Section
Leader - Lynne Faulkner
EUROPE ALIVE INTERNATIONAL
President - Tula Beltran
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EUROPE ALIVE - SALZBURG 2016
We arrived in Salzburg by train on the afternoon of Friday 16th September and soon found a taxi to carry us through the narrow old streets to the leafy outskirts and as we drove up the long gravel drive we were entranced by the beautiful lakeside setting of the historic Hotel Schloss Leopoldskron.
After checking into our rooms we wandered out onto the terrace to admire the views across the lake and began meeting delegates from Austria, Denmark, Estonia, Norway, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the rest of the group from the United Kingdom who were all, except some locals, staying in the Schloss.
The time flew by and soon it was time for dinner served in the very impressive dining room to all of the visiting delegates and a good number of Austrian members who had come to greet us. We so enjoyed meeting everyone as it was our first Europe Alive and were thankful that name badges were being worn. Many of the ladies had met on previous occasions so they had a good evening catching up with each other’s news. During the evening we were given the history and a tour of this magnificent building and found the library with it’s secret passage to be most memorable. This all made a wonderful start to the International Europe Alive meeting in Salzburg.
The following morning, Saturday, the bus arrived for the “Sound of Music Tour” and we were told how the film was set in the grounds of the Hotel Leopoldskron Schloss using the terrace and views across the lake although the interior was not used as those scenes were filmed in the studios.
The weather was very wet indeed but as this isn’t unusual in the hills we had been given an umbrella each in our welcome pack the previous evening along with information leaflets and an itinerary timetable. The guide had plenty of anecdotes from the film and about the cast and he also played songs from the soundtrack of “The Sound of Music” as we travelled between locations. The gazebo at Hellbrunn Palace where Rolf and Liesl sang the song “16 going on 17” as well as the kissing scene between Maria and Baron von Trapp was immediately recognisable as was the Monzee Wedding Chapel which we reached by a small tourist train. We saw many other sights from the film and some of the scenery was quite stunning or would have been without the clouds and rain. A traditional Austrian lunch was served along with three different local beers to sample at the Stiegl Brauwelt Brewery (founded in 1492). We then had a guided tour of the brewery and were each given a Red Beer Stein as a memento.
The final visit of the day was to Maria Plain, a beautiful pilgrimage church, positioned high up in the hills affording wonderful views. The church dates back to the 1670’s and holds the miraculous painting of the Virgin Mary with child, a work which survived a major fire in Regen in Bavaria during the 30 year war. Coffee and biscuits were served and we returned to the hotel where the rest of the evening was free time.
Sunday was a much brighter day - ideal for our visit to the Freilicht Museum which is an open air collection of historic farmhouses and barns that had been saved for posterity by being transported log by log and re-erected on this site to show how country people lived in the mountains with their livestock. A small train took us up through the alpine meadows and dropped us near the top that so we could wander downhill and admire the wooden chalets built to withstand the snows. Lunch was served in their restaurant after which traditional entertainment had been arranged. An Austrian folklore group in national costume played and danced with such enthusiasm that several of our delegates were easily persuaded to join in. Great fun!!
The coach returned us to Salzburg where we boarded a river cruiser and sailed down the river Salzach to get a different perspective of the town. In the olden days it was the salt transportation on the river that gave the river its name. We passed the Mozarteum (University of Music) one of the world’s most prestigious music academies. We also passed under the Makartsteg bridge which was covered in padlocks attached to the railings by couples giving it the local name of “lover’s bridge”.
The next view of the city was achieved after we took the elevator up to the Monchsberg M32 restaurant terrace where we were served tea and cakes and took advantage of such a good photo opportunity.
We returned to the hotel to change for a special Mozart dinner at Peterkeller Restaurant. The wonderful meal was interspersed by live musical interludes from Don Giovanni, Figaro, The Magic Flute, and Eine Kleine Nachtmusik by some talented musicians and singers all dressed in glamorous 18th century costumes. This lovely restaurant is part of the oldest monastery in the German speaking world, dating from 696 AD.
Monday: Another most interesting day started with a visit to the very impressive Mirabell Palace where a representative of the city council showed us around the buildings and extensive gardens which were a riot of colour although once more our umbrellas were put to good use!
After that we moved to an indoor meeting at the Chamber of Commerce with Dr Christian Moller, foreign trade delegate. He gave us a thorough and interesting insight into the present economic situation in Austria. The have a high quality of life with good trade relations and an almost equal balance of trade. Dr Moller was happy to answer our questions whilst we had coffee and canapes.
Later we had a walking tour of Salzburg old town looking at the shops, buildings, statues and bridges - so again plenty of photographs were taken. Salzburg Cathedral Dom had many wonderful artefacts including the 2nd largest bell in Austria but the highlight was the dome with wonderful frescoes of scenes from the Old Testament. The cogwheel railway then took us up to Hohensalzburg Fortress, which is the largest preserved 11th century fortress in Europe, where we had lunch. This is the building which dominates the skyline wherever you are in Salzburg so the views from up there were second to none. The fortress also had a museum which several of the delegates chose to visit. Later we descended by the cogwheel railway and were taken to a chocolate factory outlet in Grodig. The shop was piled high with temptations and plenty of free taster samples and of course a number of delegates bought some of the wonderful Austrian chocolate.
The last evening was our “Farewell Dinner” in the historic Schloss Leopoldskron dining room where we were welcomed by Sonja Stiegelbauer D.Phil. former federal minister of Austria and chairman of the Austrian section of the EUW. After the delicious meal and farewell speeches had been made the Big Raffle presents were distributed and the room was a buzz of lively chat with new friends exchanging contact details before we retired for our last night.
Tuesday September 20th 2016 and time to zip our bags, say “Au revoir” to old friends and new and head to the station or airport with very happy memories of Salzburg, the Salt Town.
Glenice Reed and Christine Hanley
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Europe Alive 2015 - Estonia “The Pearl of Mediaeval Europe”
September 2015 gave members a chance to see a part of Europe not previously visited by our members.
Tallinn is the capital city of the new state of Estonia established in 1991. For much of the second half of the twentieth century, it had a turbulent history after being invaded by the Nazis in the Second World War, before the United Soviet Socialist Republic annexed it. It has a long and colourful history.
The hotel in which we stayed, St Olav’s, is a mediaeval merchant’s house set in the middle of the old city of Tallinn. The old stone of the walls was revealed in places but some of the stairs were a little daunting. The Estonian Section of EUW welcomed us in a beautiful room and with a lovely dinner. The decibels rose as old friends renewed their contacts and new friendships were made.
As there were thirty nine members from eight different countries, Bobbie Middleton used the opportunity to discuss the migrant crisis as seen from the viewpoints of different countries. Some people were able to give five figures that pointed to the scale of the problem but the more heartrending stories came from members from Austria, Greece and Spain. They spoke about the plight of the Syrian refugees fleeing civil war and the devastation of their country. The members from Sweden, Norway, Switzerland, the UK and Estonia spoke about the problems encountered by the countries where the refugees were hoping to settle. The Europe Alive Commission adds a considerable dimension to the
examination of European problems.
Tallinn is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
On the first full day of our visit, we set off, after a hearty breakfast, and walked, in the sunshine, to the Parliament Building, passing beautiful and historic buildings, to meet two members of the Estonian Parliament. After being shown into a large room, we were introduced to Mart Nutt, one of the two MPs, a member of the Constitutional Committee of Parliament who shared some fascinating facts about the country.
Estonia consists of fifteen counties and has 1,500 surrounding islands. The population is 1,313.271. Finland is to the north, the Baltic Sea and Sweden to the west, Latvia to the south and Russia to the east. The Estonian voting system is one of proportional representation.
Europe’s way of coping with the migrant crisis is understood by the government but it feels that Europe is not able to absorb all those wanting to come, as many are economic migrants who, possibly, may not be in such great need. Mr Nutt suggested that large camps could be set up in countries nearer their own. Although migrants for the Middle East have yet to reach Estonia, there are, however, Russian political refugees unable to return home: Russia will not accept them as they no longer have Russian passports. These people are given grey passports to differentiate them from native Estonians when they can speak fluent Estonian.
Makro Mihkelson, our second speaker is the Chairman of the National defence committee and was elected in 2013. He thought the Middle Eastern crisis would be better dealt with at the root of the problem, in the area where the troubles are located.
He also spoke about the UK referendum on leaving or remaining in the EU. He hoped, along with everyone in the room, it seemed, that the UK would remain in the EU as a calming influence at the top level of the EU. Estonia’s main concern is their neighbour, Russia. Mr Mihkelson has met President Putin at various conferences and the meetings left him concerned how things would be resolved: recent events have proved him prescient. Estonian trade, mainly in wood and engineering, is keeping a door open for dialogue and an uneasy alliance is accepted. Mr Mihkelson had struck up a friendship with David Cameron when they met. On the way home we heard the announcement that NATO is to place troops from the USA and the UK in Estonia. One could feel the undercurrent that prevails in the country…or was that just me?
We were then shown into the Parliament itself by a charming young man. He seated us in the upper part of the House and explained the format of a sitting. Since 1922, the sessions of the Riigikogu have taken place in the Toompea Castle, where a new building in an unusual Expressionist style was erected in the former courtyard of the medieval castle during 1920–1922.
The cost of living in Estonia is very high but salaries are low. He believed that may be one of the reasons that migrants have so far not headed to Estonia. Benefits include a very small Child Allowance which covers little more than a packet of nappies. The old age pension is also quite low but there are hopes of an increase next year. Paid parental leave is for eighteen months, which either parent can take.
On leaving the Parliament, we were taken by an elderly historian, around the walled city. He gave a fascinating history of the country he obviously loved. Estonia has been conquered by almost every bordering country from as long ago as the thirteenth century, when Teutonic knights rode in. A major Centre of the Hanseatic League has been developed.
In Catherine the Great’s Parliament Square at the top of Toompea Hill, the viewing point allows a panoramic view of Tallinn. Laid out in the sunshine we saw historic buildings, many with red roofs, and belfries appearing above the rich green tree tops and the very blue sea with the coast of Finland across the bay.
After a delicious Estonian lunch of goulash or chicken with salad, we visited the local craft shops.
In the evening some of us had already booked to go to the opera at the Ballet and Opera Theatre, the Rahvusooper, where we saw Paul Hindesmith’s “Cadillac. In the interval, Riina had kindly arranged delicious, and very welcome, coffee and cake. Arriving back at the hotel we found some members cementing friendships and drinking nightcaps, not put off by the slight drizzle.
The next day found us visiting the ancient city of Viljandi, Southern Estonia. We travelled for two hours through beautiful countryside covered with a fine mist. Our excellent guide answered every question we put to her.
On arrival there was a wonderful reception laid on at the Town Hall where Mayor Ando Kiviberg and the charming Head of the Department of Public Relations and Tourism, Krista Kull had coffee and delicious buns filled, not with currants as one might expect but, with delicious hot sausage. The mayor delivered a history of the beautiful town with its cobbled streets and old oak trees. Later we walked around the ruins of an ancient Livonian castle which overlooked the town gazing at the valley with its four kilometre lake. The area is used for water sports and other activities, and the local folk festival.
We also visited the Culture Academy which is a vocational training centre for young people. Students here are taught bricklaying and other relates building skills. The government decided, after the drop in the birth rate after the baby boom of the 1980s affected the number of people wishing to go to university, that it would decree which subjects will be needed in future years, whether it be medicine or engineering for example. The university then encourages students to take a degree in those subjects. When there is enough take up, the government covers all fees for those students. Then the university gains a large governmental grant. The situation is reviewed every five years.
We had lunch cooked by the student chefs.
We had a chance next to visit one of three places: a bed making factory, the most efficient automated parcel delivery service in the world or, as I did, the Karula Cleveron home/school for disabled children. It wasn’t quite as we expected as the children who had been placed there never returned to their families and it has now become a home for young adults. This establishment is a community on its own, not in the wider community, but it was full of smiling happy people, each with their own room, spotlessly clean. A positive experience.
Our evening meal was at Olustvere Manor House which was built in the 1850s. Its last owner left it to the community to be used as a college for the populace. Glass blowing, ceramics. agriculture and, most importantly, vodka production are taught there in order to help young people find work.
They served an excellent meal here too.
The next day we visited the TV tower which has the highest open balcony in Northern Europe! After learning the history we were able to make a DVD of oneself recording a message to take home. We moved on to the Kumu Art Museum which opened in 2006. The building won the European Museum of the year award and is considered an architectural masterpiece, with its curves marked out in copper and limestone to great effect.
All our guides spoke excellent English, as this is the accepted language of EUW, and our guide at the museum, the highest building in Estonia, was no exception. She gave an extensive and interesting talk.
Lunch here had been chosen by Riina which was to boost our energy for the afternoon’s tour. The Danish Ladies declared it one of the best chocolates they had ever had. Who am I to disagree?
After lunch our destination was a schloss. The founder and previous owner, Alexander von Beckendorf as well as its subsequent owners including Volkonski, was a close friend of the Russians Tsars. Czar Nicholas 11 and his family were frequent visitors. After a tour of the building when we were told of its history, we discovered that many grand buildings damaged by war are being snapped up by the nouveau riche who restore them to their former glory. The new owners, one Estonian and a Finnish architect, have done a good job here and it is hoped that it will become a National Trust style centre along with others of its kind.
Our last dinner of the visit was served the restaurant “Napoleon”. After speeches of thanks to our charming hostesses and a photographer friend who had been such a help, there was the usual EUW raffle with many prizes.
All the goodbyes and see you next year conversations brought an end to these wonderful few days. It was sad to say goodbye to this very welcoming country and its people. I would love to return. Maybe one day….
Estonia gave us a wonderful send off with brilliant sunshine, stunning colours with wonderful memories and new friends.
My thanks to Aitah Riina, the Team and to Estonia.
Iris Mooney
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EUROPE ALIVE – SWEDEN 2011
Eight EUW British Section ladies accepted an invitation from Sweden to a Europe Alive gathering in June. This was a memorable event, not least because we stayed on the 18th Century ship, ‘af Chapman’, in the heart of Stockholm – sleeping in bunks – in glorious weather. If you add excellent organisation, the friendship of Inger Billing and Swedish EUW members and an excellent photographic record, produced by Inga Nathorst, with career details of 21 ladies from five countries, and you see what I mean!
We fully embraced the purpose of Europe Alive, expressed by Alison Tennant, by exploring political, cultural and social aspects of Sweden, which our hostesses really made ‘come alive’ for us.
On arrival we went on a boat trip around Stockholm’s waterways , passing through two locks, between the freshwater lake of Malaren and the saltwater Baltic sea. There we could see the extent of this city, with old and new buildings. The Swedes are very environmentally aware, with clean waters and old industrial sites renovated into beautiful residential buildings. Our first delicious Swedish meal was on another boat, with the Chef describing the typical menu.
We retired to our bunks, which proved comfortable once we mastered the art of climbing up to the top bunks and down a steep ladder without bumping heads!
After breakfast in the Capitainery building, we walked to the Parliament building, and were greeted by Ulrika Karlsson, a lawyer and MP, one of 47 in the ruling Conservative Moderat Party. She specialises in combating terrorism, organised crime and domestic violence. She explained that Sweden was socialist for many years but is now ruled by a right wing coalition. Their economy was weak in the 1990’s but is now strong and the country is prosperous. After passing through security we saw the Parliament in action in the Chamber. MP’s, elected by proportional representation, are grouped in the Chamber by constituency rather than party. After touring the formal buildings and a delicious lunch, we thanked our hostesses for an interesting insight into the work of the Swedish Parliament, and for their generous hospitality.
Our next visit was to the Royal Palace, where our excellent guide explained the history behind the monarchy. As well as seeing the lovely architecture we also saw the beautiful crown jewels, including several crowns. Unlike our own Queen the monarch does not actually don the crown, but during the coronation ceremony it is symbolically placed on a cushion. The eldest child of the ruling monarch accedes to the throne, not necessarily the son, and the present Heir is Crown Princess Victoria. The final visit for the day was to the Moderat party headquarters, housed in an interesting old palace! An informal meal had been prepared by Swedish members, some of whom had came especially to meet us.
We walked back through the Stockholm streets admiring the lovely skyline, with steeples and decorative golden finials glowing in the soft dusk. Daylight is almost total when so close to mid- summer.
On Saturday we walked the Hallwyn House, built for the Count and Countess von Hallwyn in the 1890’s, as a family home, which has been preserved intact. When the Countess died she left the palace and its contents – 67,000 fully catalogued exhibits, to the city. The contents are amazing, with superb arts and décor, domestic furnishings, clothing and plumbing!
Lunch was at the legendary 19th century Restaurant Berns Salonger, an amazing building with stately galleries, magnificent pink chandeliers and huge mirrors. To celebrate the millennium the Restaurant was restored by the British designer Terence Conran. The lunch was as superb as the building.
We then explored the shops and cafes and observed local people enjoying their city, especially the market. Here we bought gorgeous flowers for our hostesses who had kindly invited us to their homes to see the domestic side of Swedish life. Five of us were invited to the beautiful home of Olga Wallenberg, a member of the famous Swedish banking family, and a relative of the renowned industrialist who saved the lives of many Jewish people during the war. The conversation flowed, before, during and after a delicious dinner. Our visit to her apartment was memorable for her gracious hospitality and lively personality.
Sunday was predicted to be cloudy, but the sun came out and we had another amazing day. We walked around the harbour, boarding a cruising boat to see some of the 24,000 islands of the Archipelago. Public boats visit many of the islands daily and ice-breakers during the winter, so that residents can move about, get supplies etc. We landed at Sandham Island, and enjoyed another excellent lunch before a guided walk around the island. We then relaxed and watched the yachts coming in from the race while some went swimming.
We returned to af Chapman for a light farewell meal, toasting Europe Alive, Inger and her members in pink champagne and thanked them an unforgettable event. We departed on Monday, happy to have learned so much about Sweden, having made new friends, and experienced excellent Swedish hospitality.
Bobbie Middleton, Europe Alive British Section Chairman 2011 Copyright EUW
The next visit will be to Spain in June 2012.
In 1985, Alison Tennant’s report to the General Assembly said: “Europe Alive is essentially political for those well-versed and for those keen to learn more …. for visitors to share their knowledge and experience in discussions on social, industrial and economic problems …. for ordinary members. The hope is that Europe Alive may promote growth, and give EUW a broad base as well as a specialised membership”.
The host country draws up a programme of events to cover 3-4 days and the visit is open to all national Sections. The mix of participants from many Sections is lively and stimulating.
EUROPE ALIVE British Section
Leader - Lynne Faulkner
EUROPE ALIVE INTERNATIONAL
President - Tula Beltran
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EUROPE ALIVE - SALZBURG 2016
We arrived in Salzburg by train on the afternoon of Friday 16th September and soon found a taxi to carry us through the narrow old streets to the leafy outskirts and as we drove up the long gravel drive we were entranced by the beautiful lakeside setting of the historic Hotel Schloss Leopoldskron.
After checking into our rooms we wandered out onto the terrace to admire the views across the lake and began meeting delegates from Austria, Denmark, Estonia, Norway, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the rest of the group from the United Kingdom who were all, except some locals, staying in the Schloss.
The time flew by and soon it was time for dinner served in the very impressive dining room to all of the visiting delegates and a good number of Austrian members who had come to greet us. We so enjoyed meeting everyone as it was our first Europe Alive and were thankful that name badges were being worn. Many of the ladies had met on previous occasions so they had a good evening catching up with each other’s news. During the evening we were given the history and a tour of this magnificent building and found the library with it’s secret passage to be most memorable. This all made a wonderful start to the International Europe Alive meeting in Salzburg.
The following morning, Saturday, the bus arrived for the “Sound of Music Tour” and we were told how the film was set in the grounds of the Hotel Leopoldskron Schloss using the terrace and views across the lake although the interior was not used as those scenes were filmed in the studios.
The weather was very wet indeed but as this isn’t unusual in the hills we had been given an umbrella each in our welcome pack the previous evening along with information leaflets and an itinerary timetable. The guide had plenty of anecdotes from the film and about the cast and he also played songs from the soundtrack of “The Sound of Music” as we travelled between locations. The gazebo at Hellbrunn Palace where Rolf and Liesl sang the song “16 going on 17” as well as the kissing scene between Maria and Baron von Trapp was immediately recognisable as was the Monzee Wedding Chapel which we reached by a small tourist train. We saw many other sights from the film and some of the scenery was quite stunning or would have been without the clouds and rain. A traditional Austrian lunch was served along with three different local beers to sample at the Stiegl Brauwelt Brewery (founded in 1492). We then had a guided tour of the brewery and were each given a Red Beer Stein as a memento.
The final visit of the day was to Maria Plain, a beautiful pilgrimage church, positioned high up in the hills affording wonderful views. The church dates back to the 1670’s and holds the miraculous painting of the Virgin Mary with child, a work which survived a major fire in Regen in Bavaria during the 30 year war. Coffee and biscuits were served and we returned to the hotel where the rest of the evening was free time.
Sunday was a much brighter day - ideal for our visit to the Freilicht Museum which is an open air collection of historic farmhouses and barns that had been saved for posterity by being transported log by log and re-erected on this site to show how country people lived in the mountains with their livestock. A small train took us up through the alpine meadows and dropped us near the top that so we could wander downhill and admire the wooden chalets built to withstand the snows. Lunch was served in their restaurant after which traditional entertainment had been arranged. An Austrian folklore group in national costume played and danced with such enthusiasm that several of our delegates were easily persuaded to join in. Great fun!!
The coach returned us to Salzburg where we boarded a river cruiser and sailed down the river Salzach to get a different perspective of the town. In the olden days it was the salt transportation on the river that gave the river its name. We passed the Mozarteum (University of Music) one of the world’s most prestigious music academies. We also passed under the Makartsteg bridge which was covered in padlocks attached to the railings by couples giving it the local name of “lover’s bridge”.
The next view of the city was achieved after we took the elevator up to the Monchsberg M32 restaurant terrace where we were served tea and cakes and took advantage of such a good photo opportunity.
We returned to the hotel to change for a special Mozart dinner at Peterkeller Restaurant. The wonderful meal was interspersed by live musical interludes from Don Giovanni, Figaro, The Magic Flute, and Eine Kleine Nachtmusik by some talented musicians and singers all dressed in glamorous 18th century costumes. This lovely restaurant is part of the oldest monastery in the German speaking world, dating from 696 AD.
Monday: Another most interesting day started with a visit to the very impressive Mirabell Palace where a representative of the city council showed us around the buildings and extensive gardens which were a riot of colour although once more our umbrellas were put to good use!
After that we moved to an indoor meeting at the Chamber of Commerce with Dr Christian Moller, foreign trade delegate. He gave us a thorough and interesting insight into the present economic situation in Austria. The have a high quality of life with good trade relations and an almost equal balance of trade. Dr Moller was happy to answer our questions whilst we had coffee and canapes.
Later we had a walking tour of Salzburg old town looking at the shops, buildings, statues and bridges - so again plenty of photographs were taken. Salzburg Cathedral Dom had many wonderful artefacts including the 2nd largest bell in Austria but the highlight was the dome with wonderful frescoes of scenes from the Old Testament. The cogwheel railway then took us up to Hohensalzburg Fortress, which is the largest preserved 11th century fortress in Europe, where we had lunch. This is the building which dominates the skyline wherever you are in Salzburg so the views from up there were second to none. The fortress also had a museum which several of the delegates chose to visit. Later we descended by the cogwheel railway and were taken to a chocolate factory outlet in Grodig. The shop was piled high with temptations and plenty of free taster samples and of course a number of delegates bought some of the wonderful Austrian chocolate.
The last evening was our “Farewell Dinner” in the historic Schloss Leopoldskron dining room where we were welcomed by Sonja Stiegelbauer D.Phil. former federal minister of Austria and chairman of the Austrian section of the EUW. After the delicious meal and farewell speeches had been made the Big Raffle presents were distributed and the room was a buzz of lively chat with new friends exchanging contact details before we retired for our last night.
Tuesday September 20th 2016 and time to zip our bags, say “Au revoir” to old friends and new and head to the station or airport with very happy memories of Salzburg, the Salt Town.
Glenice Reed and Christine Hanley
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Europe Alive 2015 - Estonia “The Pearl of Mediaeval Europe”
September 2015 gave members a chance to see a part of Europe not previously visited by our members.
Tallinn is the capital city of the new state of Estonia established in 1991. For much of the second half of the twentieth century, it had a turbulent history after being invaded by the Nazis in the Second World War, before the United Soviet Socialist Republic annexed it. It has a long and colourful history.
The hotel in which we stayed, St Olav’s, is a mediaeval merchant’s house set in the middle of the old city of Tallinn. The old stone of the walls was revealed in places but some of the stairs were a little daunting. The Estonian Section of EUW welcomed us in a beautiful room and with a lovely dinner. The decibels rose as old friends renewed their contacts and new friendships were made.
As there were thirty nine members from eight different countries, Bobbie Middleton used the opportunity to discuss the migrant crisis as seen from the viewpoints of different countries. Some people were able to give five figures that pointed to the scale of the problem but the more heartrending stories came from members from Austria, Greece and Spain. They spoke about the plight of the Syrian refugees fleeing civil war and the devastation of their country. The members from Sweden, Norway, Switzerland, the UK and Estonia spoke about the problems encountered by the countries where the refugees were hoping to settle. The Europe Alive Commission adds a considerable dimension to the
examination of European problems.
Tallinn is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
On the first full day of our visit, we set off, after a hearty breakfast, and walked, in the sunshine, to the Parliament Building, passing beautiful and historic buildings, to meet two members of the Estonian Parliament. After being shown into a large room, we were introduced to Mart Nutt, one of the two MPs, a member of the Constitutional Committee of Parliament who shared some fascinating facts about the country.
Estonia consists of fifteen counties and has 1,500 surrounding islands. The population is 1,313.271. Finland is to the north, the Baltic Sea and Sweden to the west, Latvia to the south and Russia to the east. The Estonian voting system is one of proportional representation.
Europe’s way of coping with the migrant crisis is understood by the government but it feels that Europe is not able to absorb all those wanting to come, as many are economic migrants who, possibly, may not be in such great need. Mr Nutt suggested that large camps could be set up in countries nearer their own. Although migrants for the Middle East have yet to reach Estonia, there are, however, Russian political refugees unable to return home: Russia will not accept them as they no longer have Russian passports. These people are given grey passports to differentiate them from native Estonians when they can speak fluent Estonian.
Makro Mihkelson, our second speaker is the Chairman of the National defence committee and was elected in 2013. He thought the Middle Eastern crisis would be better dealt with at the root of the problem, in the area where the troubles are located.
He also spoke about the UK referendum on leaving or remaining in the EU. He hoped, along with everyone in the room, it seemed, that the UK would remain in the EU as a calming influence at the top level of the EU. Estonia’s main concern is their neighbour, Russia. Mr Mihkelson has met President Putin at various conferences and the meetings left him concerned how things would be resolved: recent events have proved him prescient. Estonian trade, mainly in wood and engineering, is keeping a door open for dialogue and an uneasy alliance is accepted. Mr Mihkelson had struck up a friendship with David Cameron when they met. On the way home we heard the announcement that NATO is to place troops from the USA and the UK in Estonia. One could feel the undercurrent that prevails in the country…or was that just me?
We were then shown into the Parliament itself by a charming young man. He seated us in the upper part of the House and explained the format of a sitting. Since 1922, the sessions of the Riigikogu have taken place in the Toompea Castle, where a new building in an unusual Expressionist style was erected in the former courtyard of the medieval castle during 1920–1922.
The cost of living in Estonia is very high but salaries are low. He believed that may be one of the reasons that migrants have so far not headed to Estonia. Benefits include a very small Child Allowance which covers little more than a packet of nappies. The old age pension is also quite low but there are hopes of an increase next year. Paid parental leave is for eighteen months, which either parent can take.
On leaving the Parliament, we were taken by an elderly historian, around the walled city. He gave a fascinating history of the country he obviously loved. Estonia has been conquered by almost every bordering country from as long ago as the thirteenth century, when Teutonic knights rode in. A major Centre of the Hanseatic League has been developed.
In Catherine the Great’s Parliament Square at the top of Toompea Hill, the viewing point allows a panoramic view of Tallinn. Laid out in the sunshine we saw historic buildings, many with red roofs, and belfries appearing above the rich green tree tops and the very blue sea with the coast of Finland across the bay.
After a delicious Estonian lunch of goulash or chicken with salad, we visited the local craft shops.
In the evening some of us had already booked to go to the opera at the Ballet and Opera Theatre, the Rahvusooper, where we saw Paul Hindesmith’s “Cadillac. In the interval, Riina had kindly arranged delicious, and very welcome, coffee and cake. Arriving back at the hotel we found some members cementing friendships and drinking nightcaps, not put off by the slight drizzle.
The next day found us visiting the ancient city of Viljandi, Southern Estonia. We travelled for two hours through beautiful countryside covered with a fine mist. Our excellent guide answered every question we put to her.
On arrival there was a wonderful reception laid on at the Town Hall where Mayor Ando Kiviberg and the charming Head of the Department of Public Relations and Tourism, Krista Kull had coffee and delicious buns filled, not with currants as one might expect but, with delicious hot sausage. The mayor delivered a history of the beautiful town with its cobbled streets and old oak trees. Later we walked around the ruins of an ancient Livonian castle which overlooked the town gazing at the valley with its four kilometre lake. The area is used for water sports and other activities, and the local folk festival.
We also visited the Culture Academy which is a vocational training centre for young people. Students here are taught bricklaying and other relates building skills. The government decided, after the drop in the birth rate after the baby boom of the 1980s affected the number of people wishing to go to university, that it would decree which subjects will be needed in future years, whether it be medicine or engineering for example. The university then encourages students to take a degree in those subjects. When there is enough take up, the government covers all fees for those students. Then the university gains a large governmental grant. The situation is reviewed every five years.
We had lunch cooked by the student chefs.
We had a chance next to visit one of three places: a bed making factory, the most efficient automated parcel delivery service in the world or, as I did, the Karula Cleveron home/school for disabled children. It wasn’t quite as we expected as the children who had been placed there never returned to their families and it has now become a home for young adults. This establishment is a community on its own, not in the wider community, but it was full of smiling happy people, each with their own room, spotlessly clean. A positive experience.
Our evening meal was at Olustvere Manor House which was built in the 1850s. Its last owner left it to the community to be used as a college for the populace. Glass blowing, ceramics. agriculture and, most importantly, vodka production are taught there in order to help young people find work.
They served an excellent meal here too.
The next day we visited the TV tower which has the highest open balcony in Northern Europe! After learning the history we were able to make a DVD of oneself recording a message to take home. We moved on to the Kumu Art Museum which opened in 2006. The building won the European Museum of the year award and is considered an architectural masterpiece, with its curves marked out in copper and limestone to great effect.
All our guides spoke excellent English, as this is the accepted language of EUW, and our guide at the museum, the highest building in Estonia, was no exception. She gave an extensive and interesting talk.
Lunch here had been chosen by Riina which was to boost our energy for the afternoon’s tour. The Danish Ladies declared it one of the best chocolates they had ever had. Who am I to disagree?
After lunch our destination was a schloss. The founder and previous owner, Alexander von Beckendorf as well as its subsequent owners including Volkonski, was a close friend of the Russians Tsars. Czar Nicholas 11 and his family were frequent visitors. After a tour of the building when we were told of its history, we discovered that many grand buildings damaged by war are being snapped up by the nouveau riche who restore them to their former glory. The new owners, one Estonian and a Finnish architect, have done a good job here and it is hoped that it will become a National Trust style centre along with others of its kind.
Our last dinner of the visit was served the restaurant “Napoleon”. After speeches of thanks to our charming hostesses and a photographer friend who had been such a help, there was the usual EUW raffle with many prizes.
All the goodbyes and see you next year conversations brought an end to these wonderful few days. It was sad to say goodbye to this very welcoming country and its people. I would love to return. Maybe one day….
Estonia gave us a wonderful send off with brilliant sunshine, stunning colours with wonderful memories and new friends.
My thanks to Aitah Riina, the Team and to Estonia.
Iris Mooney
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EUROPE ALIVE – SWEDEN 2011
Eight EUW British Section ladies accepted an invitation from Sweden to a Europe Alive gathering in June. This was a memorable event, not least because we stayed on the 18th Century ship, ‘af Chapman’, in the heart of Stockholm – sleeping in bunks – in glorious weather. If you add excellent organisation, the friendship of Inger Billing and Swedish EUW members and an excellent photographic record, produced by Inga Nathorst, with career details of 21 ladies from five countries, and you see what I mean!
We fully embraced the purpose of Europe Alive, expressed by Alison Tennant, by exploring political, cultural and social aspects of Sweden, which our hostesses really made ‘come alive’ for us.
On arrival we went on a boat trip around Stockholm’s waterways , passing through two locks, between the freshwater lake of Malaren and the saltwater Baltic sea. There we could see the extent of this city, with old and new buildings. The Swedes are very environmentally aware, with clean waters and old industrial sites renovated into beautiful residential buildings. Our first delicious Swedish meal was on another boat, with the Chef describing the typical menu.
We retired to our bunks, which proved comfortable once we mastered the art of climbing up to the top bunks and down a steep ladder without bumping heads!
After breakfast in the Capitainery building, we walked to the Parliament building, and were greeted by Ulrika Karlsson, a lawyer and MP, one of 47 in the ruling Conservative Moderat Party. She specialises in combating terrorism, organised crime and domestic violence. She explained that Sweden was socialist for many years but is now ruled by a right wing coalition. Their economy was weak in the 1990’s but is now strong and the country is prosperous. After passing through security we saw the Parliament in action in the Chamber. MP’s, elected by proportional representation, are grouped in the Chamber by constituency rather than party. After touring the formal buildings and a delicious lunch, we thanked our hostesses for an interesting insight into the work of the Swedish Parliament, and for their generous hospitality.
Our next visit was to the Royal Palace, where our excellent guide explained the history behind the monarchy. As well as seeing the lovely architecture we also saw the beautiful crown jewels, including several crowns. Unlike our own Queen the monarch does not actually don the crown, but during the coronation ceremony it is symbolically placed on a cushion. The eldest child of the ruling monarch accedes to the throne, not necessarily the son, and the present Heir is Crown Princess Victoria. The final visit for the day was to the Moderat party headquarters, housed in an interesting old palace! An informal meal had been prepared by Swedish members, some of whom had came especially to meet us.
We walked back through the Stockholm streets admiring the lovely skyline, with steeples and decorative golden finials glowing in the soft dusk. Daylight is almost total when so close to mid- summer.
On Saturday we walked the Hallwyn House, built for the Count and Countess von Hallwyn in the 1890’s, as a family home, which has been preserved intact. When the Countess died she left the palace and its contents – 67,000 fully catalogued exhibits, to the city. The contents are amazing, with superb arts and décor, domestic furnishings, clothing and plumbing!
Lunch was at the legendary 19th century Restaurant Berns Salonger, an amazing building with stately galleries, magnificent pink chandeliers and huge mirrors. To celebrate the millennium the Restaurant was restored by the British designer Terence Conran. The lunch was as superb as the building.
We then explored the shops and cafes and observed local people enjoying their city, especially the market. Here we bought gorgeous flowers for our hostesses who had kindly invited us to their homes to see the domestic side of Swedish life. Five of us were invited to the beautiful home of Olga Wallenberg, a member of the famous Swedish banking family, and a relative of the renowned industrialist who saved the lives of many Jewish people during the war. The conversation flowed, before, during and after a delicious dinner. Our visit to her apartment was memorable for her gracious hospitality and lively personality.
Sunday was predicted to be cloudy, but the sun came out and we had another amazing day. We walked around the harbour, boarding a cruising boat to see some of the 24,000 islands of the Archipelago. Public boats visit many of the islands daily and ice-breakers during the winter, so that residents can move about, get supplies etc. We landed at Sandham Island, and enjoyed another excellent lunch before a guided walk around the island. We then relaxed and watched the yachts coming in from the race while some went swimming.
We returned to af Chapman for a light farewell meal, toasting Europe Alive, Inger and her members in pink champagne and thanked them an unforgettable event. We departed on Monday, happy to have learned so much about Sweden, having made new friends, and experienced excellent Swedish hospitality.
Bobbie Middleton, Europe Alive British Section Chairman 2011 Copyright EUW
The next visit will be to Spain in June 2012.
